This weekend we went to eastern border of France to the Dauphinoise, and yes, before you ask, many a potato were eaten. We were staying with some friends of friends we had met on a twinning partnership between my home village of Croston and the Loire village of Azay-le-Rideau.
My hosts had been warned of my arrival and I had been promised that "Mr French" had some blind wines to test me with, and as usual, I also had some for him. I had heard on the grapevine that he thought British palates had been ruined by Australian wines so I was gearing myself up for a challenge! Here is what we both came up with.....
Alfred Trifant Grand Cru, Blanc de blancs, Bouzy, 2004, Champagne: - Yellow plum on the nose with a surprising touch of sweetness on the palate, a generous mousse with a pithy mix of orange, grapes and marmalade. A great RM champagne from a vintage that I am not too familiar with. Knocks the socks off most supermarket offerings and famous names.
Crozes Hermitage, 2007, Pierre Chaneau :- spice, violet, black pepper, black cherry on the nose. This was followed by a relatively light palate of dry spices, cherry drops, blueberry and a touch of meat and liquorice on the finish. Attractive.
La Clape, Gerard Betrand, 2007, GSM (not L'Hospitalet):- Germoline and meat on the nose, not overly pleasant. Fair and fruity, a good honest Autumnal red but not as concentrated as the area or the producer would suggest.
Mondeuse, Savoie, Vin de Bugey, P. Charlin, 2007 :-A very light colour, sweet cherry on the nose but a slight medicinal note which was strange. The palate was light with raspberry, blueberry and violet flavours with a strange (again?!) tart eucalyptus edge. Slightly heady and weak in body. I have only tried a few Mondeuse and at their best they can have an enchanting Pinot-like feel, unfortunately this was not one of them.
Saint Joseph, 2006, Domain Courbis, Les Royes, Syrah: - The deepest and oakiest nose of the flight, supple tannins supported by an intriguing mix of black fruit and animal scents. Tar, liquorice, camphor and sweet black cherry were mixed in a velvety texture. Indeed, Mr. French said it was like "Jesus wearing velvet knickers". I shall leave no comment on that one.
Domain Thevenot le Brun et fils, 2006, Haute-Cotes-de-Nuits, White Burgundy :- This was apparently brought out for the girls so I thrust my campest hand forward and got my glass filled. Intense lemon and honey on the nose, delicate oak, coconut, quince and a balanced and restrained palate. Reminded me of a light Pernand Vergalesses.
Domain Bruno Sorg, Alsace, 2007, Pinot Noir :- It was served beyond chilled and so it tasted not dissimilar to a rich rose. Dry with a few tannins, raspberry, cranberry, cherry and a touch of toffee. I had guessed some Alpine oddity but could rest with northern Pinot. I would not rush to try it again but I have certainly on many occasions tasted thinner red Burgundy’s.
Domaine Mourguy, Irouleguy, 2006 :- Furniture polish, cigar, chocolate, gravy juice with raspberry and cherry flavours. A lovely bottle that seemed like a lunchtime, light left bank Bordeaux. This wine was in fact from Iroulguy:- a Basque wine region with rich Spanish influences that use Bordeaux varietals and oak. First time for me but I will need to re-visit to see if this was a typical example.
Domaine Saint Marguerite, Arthur Metz, 2009, Alsace, Muscat :- Slightly blush coloured and very, very, very aromatic, peach and a gewurtz-like appeal. Pink fuzzy apricot mixed with honeysuckle, lychee, wisteria. The palate was off-dry with a touch of petillance. It was long and I was suitably impressed.
Chateau Marzy, 2004, Pomerol, Grand Enclos de Riffat :- Soft bramble and oak spice on the nose with jam, spice and blackcurrant on the palate. Tasty and complete but there were no "wow" moments that lead me to be slightly under-whelmed. No complaints, I just wonder what a bit of extra Cabernet would have done to the blend??
We ate, ate, ate and ate; walks and naps were needed between each meal. Glistening rivers of cream and butter seemed to adorn each dish, which suited me just fine, when in Dauphinoise you eat the potatoes, right? Unfortunately travelling with a dairy intolerant friend was interesting indeed.
The area had such a different feel to Burgundy and the scenery was just as dramatic as the fat content in the food. Flat planes, home to chicken and duck farms spiked sharply to Alpine foothills clouded with fog, Mont Blanc is often seen but the weather was not kind to us this weekend. The houses are built for harsh winters yet the people seem to have a friendlier outlook than the Burgundians, I think it is the cream. I think we have finally found where all the French are hiding!
A new region that I am anxious to get back to, if only to try more of the local vinous products.
Merci a tous
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