Return to Scotland Part 1

It had been nearly three months since I had graced the green hills, walked down the windy streets and chatted with my irn bru and whisky soaked chums, and so I was most eager to get back in to the swing of it, kilt and all. I had just spent the last two weeks with two of my pale, sun/pollen/heat allergic Scot friends in Paris and Burgundy who endeavoured to re-introduce me to hard liquor in the guise of cocktail hour. It dawned on me that you can truly tell a true Scot when he attempts to sell a blackcurrant martini to you as part of your “5-a-day”. I joyously decided to take the well meant advice.

After obviously being so health conscious, 20 minutes in to the flight pale Scot 1, who is my usual downfall, suggests that we have a wee gin. 15 minutes later his red puffy eyes seem somewhat soothed from the hay fever by what appears to be tears of desperation. At once, 2 trolleys appear either side of me, not with tissues in hand but ice cubes in glasses. This is my moment. 6 gins each later we arrive in Edinburgh fully refreshed with another one of our “5-a-day” courtesy of the lemon wedges. Pale Scot 1, now not so pale.
As I jumped off the plane and raced to my waiting chariot, my driver/trainee nurse/binge-drinking Scot wannabe/all time power ballad pal kindly transported me to the depths of Leith where my first wine tasting was awaiting. Although my host was a Scot, she is certainly not of the pale/allergic/irn bru set, although she does often have a “prawn-marie rose moment” which is something, as a friend, I may just have to accept. Along with a crime novelist chum, 7 glasses were waiting. Here is how I got on…….

Fizz 1 Charles Heidsieck N.V. available most UK supermarkets (£25-£35) promotion dependant

At the time on the nose it seemed slightly oaky (which it is not), nutty and deep. The palate was still zippy, balsy and confident and seemed like an important vintage with a powerful house style, I was guessing 98 or 2002 of houses such as Pol Roger or Roederer. Alas no, cheaper, better value and with a delicious blue label. Not to be mistaken for Piper Hiedsieck or Heidsieck itself. My host hollers "NEXT!"

Fizz 2 Larmandier-Bernier, Blanc de N.V. internet purchase (£30+)

A very prominent nose, again oaky with a touch of manuka honey. The palate was not as full as expected but a very direct bite of citrus. Certainly not as complex as the Charles Heidsieck. Once revealed we discussed the number of times we have had this producer and the bottle variation we have encountered. From shark skin tingling acidity to round and nutty. Unsure whether a shift in house style or whether heatstroke and premature oxidation is the evil.

Red 1- Lucien Barrot 2006 CNDP (£25-£35)

On the nose it had deep earth, slight farmyard and damson bud, but overall it was subtle in character. On the palate the main gripe and feature was tannin with a dry leathery texture that was not unappealing and supported by fresh blackcurrant flavours. The wine was not aggressive but very, very, French in its freshness. Young but not a 10 year ager.

Red 2- Domaine Vieux Telegraph 2004 CNDP (Woodwinters approx £30)

It was lush on the nose with blueberry, raspberry but predominantly dark bramble fruit. This was overlaid with subtle spice, a note of malt vinegar and water treatment was added in to the mix but I wafted over than in rapture of its rustic charm. The palate was very spicy, very big and very bold. Notes of raspberry and blueberry followed from the nose mixed in with a healthy dose of tannin spice. I was guessing a mouvedre and syrah mix, and a young one at that. Not far wrong but will age gracefully into a feral little beast for the next 10 years.

Red 3 – Pesquera, Alejandro Fernandez, 2005, Ribera del Duero. (£19 approx at time of purchase- Oddbins)

This wine has always impressed me and each bottle has tasted completely different. This time my notes said……"farm, 'effing boar poo, hamon, oatmeal, walrus, ibek (notes courtesy of a zoo trip 3 weeks previously) In short this was a natural, earthy, tobacco, interesting nose that was not for the faint hearted. The palate was silky, not smooth in the way of tannins as it still had a dusty grit to it. Complete, mature and generous with regard to fruit flavours and had a very appealing sweet and sour sensation of jammy fruit, earth and prickly acidity. Nice, great to keep if you enjoy gutsy autumnal reds, or drink now for immediate pleasure. Much fuller than the 06.

Red 4- Châteaux Kirwan 2004 Margaux (£33 winedirect.com)

Exuberant on the nose, blackcurrant, milky, dense with a hint of shoe polish. The palate was again rich and dense with an un-mistakable Cabernet hit. Dry but round tannins, old-worldy and long chalky finish all wrapped up in silky silky blackcurrant. It was just getting to the age of developing some more interesting Bordeaux-like aromas and flavours but too young to define. Will drink easily for another decade.

Red 5- Giaconda Shiraz 2002 Warner Vineyard, Victoria, Australia (£60+)

Very very different on the nose to the previous reds, high octane chemical, sage, herby, lemon, hot Mediterranean hill, clove, gorse bush and a hint of aftershave (not mine). The palate was more intense than any of the others with lower perceived tannins, bigger black fruit, sweeter and minty. The texture was milky and with a big hint of blackcurrant, I was guessing a New World Cabernet. Shiraz in the end, but where was the spice? Lovely jubly, but not my style.

Thank you to the P-M-R loving host and to her hangover the next day, I, as we all do, salute you.